Banging your head against a brick wall.

When Mary and Joseph came weary to Bethlehem it is unlikely that their tiredness arose from queuing for hours to pass through the various checkpoints that strangle Bethlehem. With over 450 KM already completed and ruled illegal by the Hague, The Israelis argue the wall preserves their security and means less incursions by the IDF into Palestinian land. The second Intifida cost the lives of many Israelis and the memories are still fresh. The wall has succeeded so far in increasing Israeli security, but its psychological impact cannot be overstated. An American living in Ramallah and conducting research into its effects makes a simple yet valid point: “The wall has brought short term benefits to Israel, but in the long term will have radicalised an entire generation of Palestinian youth - These kids will have grown up having never met with Israelis with the exception of soldiers and settlers. The assumption that all Israelis beyond the wall are like the soldiers from the checkpoints creates an unprecedented capacity for fear and thus, hate to develop. The years of security the wall brings will in 10–15 years bear bitter fruits as the children of the wall with no prospects for employment, education or escape begin to strike back.”

Severing Bethlehem form Jerusalem, the checkpoints for entry are in many ways like cattle markets, high fencing and razor wire funnel people in single file whilst soldiers in watchtowers brandish automatic weapons. Once bustling commercial districts are now quiet, the shops boarded up, the streets deserted. A local shopkeeper explains to me: “People used to come from Jerusalem to Bethlehem for the markets and we used to make a good living from tourism. Since they built the wall, tourism has collapsed and we struggle to survive.” The residential districts are full of abandoned homes as the towns’ ancient Christian population leave in droves. Zionists in London claim it is because the Muslims have driven them out, I ask a Christian near the Church of the Nativity if this is true: “In Palestine the Christians and Muslims live like brothers, we are leaving Bethlehem not because we are victimised but because the economic situation is so bad since the wall came that we cannot afford to stay. My family are leaving soon, we have lied on our Visa papers and said we are being beaten by the Muslims, but really its because I must choose between feeding my family and sending my children to school.”

The Church of the Nativity is surprisingly empty with the exception of Orthodox Russian pilgrims. The supposed birthplace of Jesus, in places the bullet holes from the Israeli siege of the building are still evident. Israel claims that militants came here posing as civilians, whilst locals claim civilians were sheltering here from the fighting, the truth lost somewhere in the fog of war. The event is the reason for the phrase written next to the Banksy’s on the separation wall “Visit the Birthplace of Jesus – You too could be shot in the head”.

On the bus a Palestinian Christian lady asks if I would like to sit next to her. She tells me that Palestinians are prohibited from visiting Jerusalem, despite the fact it is the capital city of Palestine. “I was born in Jerusalem, married in Jerusalem, lived in Jerusalem and then I was forced to leave as my home was declared illegal and demolished. My sons are there and I cannot see them, as the Israelis will not give me the permits to pass through the wall. My brother was taken to hospital there last week, he is very old and is very ill. He is dying and they will not allow me to see him. I’m completely cut off from my family.” Margaret is 74, it’s hard to understand why she is not allowed through given that she evidently poses little security risk. “It is simple really, I am a Palestinian and they do not want us there, they are trying to force us all out the city.”

The Israelis stop the bus and demand to see people’s papers. Having fallen asleep with my face in my bag, a girl who looks no older than 16 prods me awake with a rifle in my ribs. I politely ask her what the fuck she thinks she’s doing to which she screams what I assume was abuse in Hebrew. The police move down the bus, periodically shouting at the Palestinian men. The fear on the their faces is evident. A family are marshalled off the bus; apparently their papers are fake. The two children look around 4 and 6 and cling to their mother. The bus driver attempts to explain in English that he will not leave until he is sure of their safety before a soldier raises his rifle and yells “Fuck Off”. The entire family are placed in handcuffs and driven away in a van. The bus moves off only to be stopped quite literally 5 minuets down the road and the process repeated. An American tourist asks if this happens often. “Every day.” comes the reply.